A4 Refereed article in a conference publication

Fibre, dyes, seams and bands: Grave 41/2016 and the Ravattula costume reconstruction




AuthorsRiikonen Jaana, Kirjavainen Heini, Karisto Maikki, Ruohonen Juha

EditorsSanna Lipkin, Erika Ruhl, Krista Wright (editors)

Conference nameNorth European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles

Publication year2023

Book title Interdisciplinary Approaches to Research of North and Central European Archaeological Textiles. The Proceedings of the North European Symposium for Archeological Textiles (23rd–26th August 2021 in Oulu).

Series titleMONOGRAPHS OF THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF FINLAND

Number in series12

ISBN978-952-69942-1-5

eISBN978-952-69942-2-2

ISSN1799-8611

Web address http://www.sarks.fi/masf/masf_12/masf_12.html

Self-archived copy’s web addresshttps://research.utu.fi/converis/portal/detail/Publication/180919188


Abstract

A woman’s grave rich in textiles and likely dated to the early 13th century was found in 2016 at Ravattula Ristimäki cemetery in southwestern Finland. Fragments of woollen textiles woven in 2/2 twill revealed a new type of dress compared with previously excavated textiles from Iron Age graves. Wool fibre analyses indicated that the pieces of clothing were woven from hairy to coarse hairy wool types. The dye analyses (HPLC-DAD) presented blue dye which was detected in a shawl, an apron, and tablet-woven bands most likely originating from woad (Isatis tinctoria L). Madder (Rubia tinctorum L), which produces a red colour, was identified in the fulled cloth of the hose and fastening bands. The grave textiles represent both the older traditions of Iron Age costume with the blue, bronze-spiral-decorated apron and shawl, and some new elements of medieval fashions like the red hose and a dress sewn together from several pieces.


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